TAPOVAN TREK - MAY 2016
UTTARAKHAND, 2016. 11th to 22nd MAY, HYD to HYD.
TEAM
Prashanth Pai - trek lead, Avinash Naine and Prasad Aruva
Pratap (guide), Bharath, Bahadur and Maila the 3 Nepali porters.
Prashanth Pai - trek lead, Avinash Naine and Prasad Aruva
Pratap (guide), Bharath, Bahadur and Maila the 3 Nepali porters.
INTRODUCTION
Tapovan, Nandanvan trek was in the to do list of my trek mate Prashant Pai. We tried to plan previous year but it didn’t materialize. Last time around in 2011, I had my choice of trek Harkidoon Valley and this time its Pai's.
News of the forest fires in the hill states, bad weather forecast - didn’t stop us from boarding the flight.
MAY 11
Hard to bid bye to family, feelings of guilt that not taking them along, also adventure is associated with unexpected dangers. Didn’t book cab, started evening walk to the road. Shared-auto to Rythu bazar, JNTU. Took Aero expess bus to airport. Met Pai at Travellers point, Avinash joined us few minutes later. Get together, few selfies with Pai's colleague. Boarded the flight, lucky to get seating in the business class. Enjoyed the VIP treatment in AirIndia flight, hot napkin, welcome drink, dinner. Great night view from the window, glowing towns, cities... thinking about the amount of electricity required to light up India.
Hard to bid bye to family, feelings of guilt that not taking them along, also adventure is associated with unexpected dangers. Didn’t book cab, started evening walk to the road. Shared-auto to Rythu bazar, JNTU. Took Aero expess bus to airport. Met Pai at Travellers point, Avinash joined us few minutes later. Get together, few selfies with Pai's colleague. Boarded the flight, lucky to get seating in the business class. Enjoyed the VIP treatment in AirIndia flight, hot napkin, welcome drink, dinner. Great night view from the window, glowing towns, cities... thinking about the amount of electricity required to light up India.
Reached Delhi past 11pm. Lengthy walk to get out of the airport. As soon as we got out, saw the ISBT bus passing, had to run to board the Kashmere Gate, ISBT bus. Delhi is very hot outside. Lucky to get bus immediately at the odd hour.
MAY 12
In bus to ISBT, Rs 100 per ticket. Surprise... there was a bus ticket inspection at midnight, Observing the night life of Delhi - many poor sleeping on the roads, rickshaw-walas in deep sleep on the roadside in the rickshaw unaware of the dangers of passing high speed vehicles. Strange is night life of Delhi. Reached ISBT and took an ordinary bus to Haridwar, no other option at late hour -ticket 222 pp. Drive was cramped, noisy, bumpy and full of mosquitoes… overall a difficult one for those traveled few hours back in the Business Class - hardly slept. Bus stopped for tea break at early hours. The old-toothless tea seller shouting… "Chai lelo… Chai lelo…" his strange shouting accent caught our attention. In next few days these will be the fun evoking words for us. Not good Tea in thermocol glass, old espresso machine.
Lot of plantation of the Poplar trees on the way, also the Jaggery units. Passed Rourkee... Road works are going on to widen the road. Reached Haridwar at 7am. Difficult to get ride to Uttarkashi, after failed cab trails, luckily got a diesel auto to Rishikesh on Rs 40 pp.
In bus to ISBT, Rs 100 per ticket. Surprise... there was a bus ticket inspection at midnight, Observing the night life of Delhi - many poor sleeping on the roads, rickshaw-walas in deep sleep on the roadside in the rickshaw unaware of the dangers of passing high speed vehicles. Strange is night life of Delhi. Reached ISBT and took an ordinary bus to Haridwar, no other option at late hour -ticket 222 pp. Drive was cramped, noisy, bumpy and full of mosquitoes… overall a difficult one for those traveled few hours back in the Business Class - hardly slept. Bus stopped for tea break at early hours. The old-toothless tea seller shouting… "Chai lelo… Chai lelo…" his strange shouting accent caught our attention. In next few days these will be the fun evoking words for us. Not good Tea in thermocol glass, old espresso machine.
Lot of plantation of the Poplar trees on the way, also the Jaggery units. Passed Rourkee... Road works are going on to widen the road. Reached Haridwar at 7am. Difficult to get ride to Uttarkashi, after failed cab trails, luckily got a diesel auto to Rishikesh on Rs 40 pp.
Auto ride - from Haridwar to Rishikesh.
On reaching Rishikesh, Pai did contact lenses lotion, holder shopping.
We had to take a local auto ride to get to the taxi stand. Had breakfast, ALU parata with chickpeas gravy. Got a Mahindra jeep from outside the taxi stand, with another gang of three for company. We have to pay 2k for taking front and middle rows, they will pay half of it for the back seats. Six of us in the jeep. Felt happy as the jeep was in the hills within few minutes. Views of the plains of was awesome as we climbed high.
We had to take a local auto ride to get to the taxi stand. Had breakfast, ALU parata with chickpeas gravy. Got a Mahindra jeep from outside the taxi stand, with another gang of three for company. We have to pay 2k for taking front and middle rows, they will pay half of it for the back seats. Six of us in the jeep. Felt happy as the jeep was in the hills within few minutes. Views of the plains of was awesome as we climbed high.
Chamba town
Low water level in Tehri, due to electricity generation at peak.
Met our guide Pratap (he came to buy the veg n groceries for the trek) at Uttarkashi and all of us proceeded to Malla.
Hydro-electricity generation at Maneri Dam
Uttarkasi to Malla, Gangotri route
Pratap's house
We had dinner inside the hut adjoining sitting in a circle. Hit the bed and dozed off, had the best sleep.
MAY 13
View from Pratap's house.
Pai and me went to Kashi Viswanath temple at Uttarkashi. Avinash said he will go to the school at Malla and roam around the village. In the jeep locals, old lady Shyampari requested us to pray for her at Tapovan. Temple was modernized and commercialized, lost its originality.
vishwanath temple n devoteStopped for tea & snacks at Dharali, little ahead of Harshil. Avi told me that there was a famous old temple near by. I quickly went to have a look, Avinash followed me. Surprised to find that the priest is a Telugu guy settled there, 50 Years back. He was happy to talk to us in Telugu.
We reached Gangotri and checked-in Mandakini hotel behind the Gangotri temple. And went for the evening walk to the check post and back.
Pratap didn’t join us as he had to arrange the porters. On our return visited the Gangotri Temple.
Dinner time at Krishna hotel. Awesome dinner and jalebi except few complaining ladies for company opposite to our table. Those ladies were giving tuff time to the serving boy.
Back to hotel - last chance to charge the mobiles, battery banks. Goodnight.
MAY 14 – TREK STARTS
Got ready quickly. Had breakfast, packed lunch and started at 8:30am.
Got ready quickly. Had breakfast, packed lunch and started at 8:30am.
9:30am at forest check post. Cleared the paper work and on the trail.
Good number of trekkers - GHAC team, us and several other teams. Initial couple of kilometres was under the shade of Deodhar trees, it was nice and good. But as we moved ahead the tree line is gone and we were in the rocks. Exposed to the mix of beating Sun and the cold wind. Highlight of the morning session - we spotted the blue sheep aka Bharal herd high on the rocky mountain, credit to Pai.
Blue sheep
By lunch time, we reached Chirbasa. Had noodles in a tea shop as the packed lunch of parotas got very hard and not eatable. I liked Chirbasa - nice pine trees, result of the afforestation drive.
Approaching Chirbasa, Bhagirathi peaks in background
After the break, started for Bhojbasa. Met two foreigners from Finland for company. One guy gave me Ganga Tulasi leaves to smell and asked me the meaning of few Hindi words.
Slowly the terrain become barren and difficult, we had to pass through land slide zones. Sun is hard on us and at the same time cold wind at high speeds. I got tired and needed the help from the team. Pai carried my bag for sometime. Saw that he is getting exhausted, told him to leave me and my bag and move ahead and send a porter back. After some rest, I started again and found Bahadur coming looking for me.
Just half a kilometre away from the Bhojbasa camp. We sat for a while in the horse shed and enjoyed the view of Gaumukh from there.
Bhojbasa
Now its just going down to the tents. I got sick with vomiting sensation and any time it may come out. With difficulty reached the camp had tea and had to rush out holding mouth... Ulti... done.
Pai and Avinash pushed me hard for the acclimatizing walk towards Gaumukh path. I was tired with no energy, battery down. Returned back and went to the Lal Baba Ashram. It was dinner time there. I slept inside the Ashram for a while, when Pai and Avinash served food to the inmates. While we were returning to our tents, another sick trekker came with us for tablets. Had dinner and went inside the tent. Difficult to catch sleep in the tent, since we got used to the luxury. No mattress, cold and on top of all the snoring.
MAY 15
Good number of trekkers - GHAC team, us and several other teams. Initial couple of kilometres was under the shade of Deodhar trees, it was nice and good. But as we moved ahead the tree line is gone and we were in the rocks. Exposed to the mix of beating Sun and the cold wind. Highlight of the morning session - we spotted the blue sheep aka Bharal herd high on the rocky mountain, credit to Pai.
Blue sheepGangotri range
By lunch time, we reached Chirbasa. Had noodles in a tea shop as the packed lunch of parotas got very hard and not eatable. I liked Chirbasa - nice pine trees, result of the afforestation drive.
Approaching Chirbasa, Bhagirathi peaks in backgroundChirbasa
After the break, started for Bhojbasa. Met two foreigners from Finland for company. One guy gave me Ganga Tulasi leaves to smell and asked me the meaning of few Hindi words.
Slowly the terrain become barren and difficult, we had to pass through land slide zones. Sun is hard on us and at the same time cold wind at high speeds. I got tired and needed the help from the team. Pai carried my bag for sometime. Saw that he is getting exhausted, told him to leave me and my bag and move ahead and send a porter back. After some rest, I started again and found Bahadur coming looking for me.
Landslide zone, mountain desert
Just half a kilometre away from the Bhojbasa camp. We sat for a while in the horse shed and enjoyed the view of Gaumukh from there.
BhojbasaNow its just going down to the tents. I got sick with vomiting sensation and any time it may come out. With difficulty reached the camp had tea and had to rush out holding mouth... Ulti... done.
Pai and Avinash pushed me hard for the acclimatizing walk towards Gaumukh path. I was tired with no energy, battery down. Returned back and went to the Lal Baba Ashram. It was dinner time there. I slept inside the Ashram for a while, when Pai and Avinash served food to the inmates. While we were returning to our tents, another sick trekker came with us for tablets. Had dinner and went inside the tent. Difficult to catch sleep in the tent, since we got used to the luxury. No mattress, cold and on top of all the snoring.
Guys had worries whether I will be alright. But after the rest, thumbs up from me. Difficult to find place for loo at Bhojbasa. We have to get out before the Sun and the fellow trekkers come out.
Had lunch after crossing the glacier with Alpine Choughs aka Chinese crows for company. Had a power nap. At 2pm started the climb, the continuous steep climb - Pai and Pratap was with me. Avinash was fast and gone ahead with the porters.
At last reached the top, and the grand view of the shivling peak - took all the pain away.
Happy to be at Tapovan. Scanning the place, we reached our tents. Camp area had lot of tents. There were few blue sheep grazing. Avinash gave them a chase and captured a video. I am not sure, what Avinash would have done, if the horny sheep gave him a return chase. Enjoyed the view of the peaks from Avinash's binoculars, fantastic.
After tea, went for a walk. Visited Mauni baba Ashram. He gave us tea. After some good time with the modern baba, we went towards the end of the Tapovan meadow parallel to the Nandanvan.
Gaumukh, Ganges starting point
We started the trek a bit late, I think past 9am. It was hot day and the trail is all stones, no trees. Reached Gaumukh and started the climb to traverse the glacier. I had a slip in the glacier and slided a metre down. While walking on the glacier noticed few guys doing a steep climb next to the stream Aakash Ganga to reach Tapovan. I was thinking these guys are crazy to do such a steep climb, only to be told that that’s the path. Hah… how to climb?Had lunch after crossing the glacier with Alpine Choughs aka Chinese crows for company. Had a power nap. At 2pm started the climb, the continuous steep climb - Pai and Pratap was with me. Avinash was fast and gone ahead with the porters.
At last reached the top, and the grand view of the shivling peak - took all the pain away.
Happy to be at Tapovan. Scanning the place, we reached our tents. Camp area had lot of tents. There were few blue sheep grazing. Avinash gave them a chase and captured a video. I am not sure, what Avinash would have done, if the horny sheep gave him a return chase. Enjoyed the view of the peaks from Avinash's binoculars, fantastic.
After tea, went for a walk. Visited Mauni baba Ashram. He gave us tea. After some good time with the modern baba, we went towards the end of the Tapovan meadow parallel to the Nandanvan.
MAY 16
Aakash ganga stream next to our tents was frozen. Yoga and fitness session in the morning under Pratap's guidance. Vivek and couple of other guys visited us, they too joined for the session. Doing yoga without mat was difficult that too it was all wet and cold. Liked one Asana where we had to leave the body and fly. I had these kind of dreams before.
We went for a day trek towards Meru peak base.
Pratap and Pai decided to climb the small peak on the left shoulder of Shivling, I followed them. Avinash proceeded towards Meru base. These guys went quickly and I was alone. We have to make our own path climbing the stones and ice in between. I climbed up to a point and decided against going further. Pratap and Pai were at the top of the peak. I sat on the rock for a while, capturing the views from the balcony. All of a sudden the weather changed, clouds gathered around the Meru peak and started approaching us. Snow is expected anytime and we have to get out quickly.
Aakash ganga stream next to our tents was frozen. Yoga and fitness session in the morning under Pratap's guidance. Vivek and couple of other guys visited us, they too joined for the session. Doing yoga without mat was difficult that too it was all wet and cold. Liked one Asana where we had to leave the body and fly. I had these kind of dreams before.
We went for a day trek towards Meru peak base.
Ice craft by nature
Pratap and Pai decided to climb the small peak on the left shoulder of Shivling, I followed them. Avinash proceeded towards Meru base. These guys went quickly and I was alone. We have to make our own path climbing the stones and ice in between. I climbed up to a point and decided against going further. Pratap and Pai were at the top of the peak. I sat on the rock for a while, capturing the views from the balcony. All of a sudden the weather changed, clouds gathered around the Meru peak and started approaching us. Snow is expected anytime and we have to get out quickly.
Meru peak
[Pratap's hotel is named after this peak. Story about its ascent Meru's Shark's Fin Climb]We turned around towards our camp. Its all going down now, easy for me only concern is clouds and snow. Snow flakes started falling, first time experience for me. Didn’t expect before the start of the trek, a bonus.
Had to shake the tents once in a while so that the snow falls down from the roof of the tents. Time pass and music time, lucky to get some rest. Avinash pulled out the selfie stick for the first time during the trek.
Cold and difficult night.
MAY 17
Prashant woke up very early to view the first fall of light on the peaks, I followed him. Enjoyed the morning views and golden tops of the peaks.
Considering the kind of tent (summer tent), sleeping bags we had and the weather conditions around - we decided to go down even though we had an extra day or two. Others going down left early, we were a bit late. As soon as you leave the Tapovan, had to go down steeply to reach the glacier.
Found Vivek in the glacier struggling due to high altitude. Got to know that his guide is getting him and couple of others down, rest of the team were still at Tapovan. We had our lunch at Gaumukh, played with the yellow beaked crows. Crossed the Bhojbasa and decided to camp at Chirbasa. Spotted a family of brown bears on the other bank of the river.
Considering the kind of tent (summer tent), sleeping bags we had and the weather conditions around - we decided to go down even though we had an extra day or two. Others going down left early, we were a bit late. As soon as you leave the Tapovan, had to go down steeply to reach the glacier.
Top-left Kerdardome, Kedarnath is behind it
One last look
Glacier
Chirbasa - Gangotri - Malla.
Busy day for all the teams going up, easy day for us. Sun comes a bit late in Chirbasa as the valley is surrounded by the peaks. Pool of Porters are getting ready in the early morning. Chirbasa has lot of tree cover, no issue in finding a place for loo. Toilets are built but not in working condition. Got ready and started the hike to Gangotri. Had tea at the new dhabha, which was not there while we were heading up. Pai was alarmed that these guys put up the shop so fast. Bought a limca bottle too.
First couple of hours was in the Sun but later most of the hike was in the trees. We collected Bhojpatra (thin layers of bark used as paper in the ancient days) as token. Overall a relaxed day and by afternoon we completed the trek. Took bus to Malla. Enjoyed tea break in between and it stopped somewhere as diesel was over, luckily they had stock in cans.
Pai and Avi got down at Bhatwari to get Mutton and drinks. We reached Malla and Pratap's kids were happy and greeted us. Pai was the chef for the dinner. Mutton in hills is a bit hard, need more whistles... say 5. Trek completion party in Pratap's house.
MAY 19
Pai and Avi got down at Bhatwari to get Mutton and drinks. We reached Malla and Pratap's kids were happy and greeted us. Pai was the chef for the dinner. Mutton in hills is a bit hard, need more whistles... say 5. Trek completion party in Pratap's house.
Rest and full rest day at Malla.
Shopping at Bhatwari, again bought mutton - it's cheaper than chicken. Avi with bike. I was the chef for the night - kaju mutton.
Shopping at Bhatwari, again bought mutton - it's cheaper than chicken. Avi with bike. I was the chef for the night - kaju mutton.
MAY 20
Malla-Uttarkashi-Rishikesh-Delhi
Woke up late and we decided to spend a day in Delhi with Pai's friend Piyush. Avi and me went to the school in Malla. Copied the pics from Avi's previous trip to the computer. Students were happy to see the pics. Photo session with school kids. Back to Meru hotel, had lunch. Bid bye to Pratap's family. Jeep to Uttarkashi. Sumo to Rishikesh. Rain and hail after crossing Chamba, poor visibility. Driver got sick but had good co-passengers. Dinner in Rishikesh bus stand. Rain again. Volvo bus to Delhi.
MAY 21
Gurgoan-Rest-Shopping in heat-Cooling at Adda.
Gurgoan-Rest-Shopping in heat-Cooling at Adda.
Afternoon we did some shopping and had good time in the evening at a micro-brewery.
Pai's friend Piyush was with Cipla that time and he gave us samples of Volini, Revital, mouth fresh tablets etc. Still have the unused ones.
MAY 22
Morning flight to Hyd. Back to the Den with memories of another UK trek, tough one though.
CONCLUSION
Difficult trek but lot of satisfaction that we came out strong. We were lucky on many factors, escaped several obstacles like rain, hail, snowing etc. in a timely fashion, as if someone was doing screen play on our behalf.
Difficult trek but lot of satisfaction that we came out strong. We were lucky on many factors, escaped several obstacles like rain, hail, snowing etc. in a timely fashion, as if someone was doing screen play on our behalf.
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